There are many factors to consider when fitting a saddle but the two
fundamentals are:
There are many factors to consider when fitting a saddle but the two
fundamentals are:
Fitting the rider
The issues around fit of the saddle to the rider depend to some extent on the
style of saddle (eg. English, Western and Stock) however the saddle length is
always important. It must give the rider enough room for comfort without being
so large that the rider slides around on the seat. A good rule of thumb with
English style saddles is that there should be about a hand’s width of space
between the back of the rider's behind and the end of the cantle, as well as a
hand’s width in the front. Western and Stock saddles tend to have a much tighter
fit, about a finger’s width. And with stock saddles, there should also be about
a finger’s width between the rider’s thighs and the kneepads (make sure the
stirrups are adjusted to the correct length before checking this).
Note that the way in which the length of a saddle is measured varies according to saddle type. All are measured from the midpoint of the cantle but Western saddles are measured to the back of the pommel, English saddles to the nail head (located down from the pommel), and stock saddles to the fore part of the pommel (ie. the raised portion between pommel and facing). This makes a difference of about one inch between saddle types. So the same rider might fit a 15" Western saddle, a 16" English saddle and a 17" stock saddle.
When the saddle has flaps (English saddles and many Western and Stock saddles), the flap length is another important factor. The flaps should be long enough to be comfortable but not so long that they inhibit the rider’s control of the horse. For example, with a dressage saddle, about two thirds of the rider’s lower leg should be in contact with the horse. Saddles with fenders rather than flaps need to have fenders that are of a length that allows them to be adjusted correctly to the rider’s leg length.
Fitting the horse
Here are some critical issues regarding the fit of the saddle on the horse:
It's a good idea to check these items both with and without a rider on the horse.
A horse that’s wearing a well fitting saddle experiences less pain, moves more freely and generally performs better for his rider. Often, when a horse is blamed for misbehaviour, the problem is actually a saddle that’s causing the horse pain or restricting his movement. This can make riding the horse less fun, less rewarding and potentially more dangerous.
Some important factors to consider include the width of the saddle, the distribution of weight on the horse’s back muscles and the position of the weight-bearing pad relative to the horse’s scapular (shoulder blade).
Another important issue is that the shape of a horse’s back doesn’t remain constant. So a saddle that fits perfectly today may not fit so well six months from now. For example a horse that’s started on a new exercise regime will generally lose fat and bulk up in muscle, changing his shape. Horses lose and gain weight in the different seasons of the year. And older horses can sometimes put on weight (just like their owners!) and they can sometimes lose it.
Whereas the saddle length is determined primarily by the size of the rider, the saddle width relates primarily to the shape of the horse. Horses with a narrow build need a saddle with a narrow gullet while horses with a wide build need a wider gullet. The padding on either side of the gullet should be clear of the horse’s spine for the full length of the saddle. (Note that some saddles – including many Western saddles – don’t have gullets and tend to fit a broad range of horse shapes.)
Important: Some experts say that 75% of saddle fit problems are the result of saddles that are too narrow for the horse. A narrow saddle generally sits too high at the front and too low at the rear, whereas a too-wide saddle will generally sit low in the front and high at the rear. A narrow saddle will place lateral pressure on the sensitive area below the wither. It will also tend to push the rider back in the saddle, causing the rider to become unbalanced. A narrow gullet channel will also pinch the muscles on either side of the spine, make his back stiff and make his paces shorter and less regular. A saddle that is too wide will sit low at the pommel, placing pressure directly onto the wither and tilting the rider forward.
Another way of assessing width is to take a profile of the horse’s back and compare this to the inner shape of the saddle. To relieve the pressure points created by a saddle that’s too narrow, some riders try using thicker saddle cloths. This is like putting on a thicker pair of socks when your boots are already too tight – it just makes the problem worse. Saddles that are too wide can sometimes be corrected by use of thicker padding but not saddles that are too narrow.
The saddle’s pommel height can sometimes affect the free movement of the horse. A rule of thumb for saddles with gullets is that there should be at least three finger’s width between the withers and the underside of the pommel.
The saddle should also sit level on the horse’s back. With an English saddle,
this means that the top of the pommel is usually about an inch lower than the
cantle, but this varies according to saddle design. A good way of checking
whether the saddle is level is to look at the stirrup leathers – they should be
hanging straight, not forward or backwards on the saddle. Note too that a
jumping saddle usually needs to be raised at the back to balance the rider's
position in the saddle.
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